26 September 2023

Winter Reds

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By Christine Salins.

www.foodwinetravel.com.au

Those of us who enjoy a good red will pour a glass at any time of year, but red wine certainly takes on an even greater appeal in winter.

There are a few reasons for that, and it’s not just the romantic idea of snuggling up in a cosy place with a glass in your hand.

Fresh, light wines are appealing in summer but come the cooler months and we want something with more complexity, structure and depth of flavour.

Reds tend to have a higher alcohol content than whites, and as alcohol increases blood flow, it makes us feel warmer inside.

There are suggestions too that the antioxidants in red wine might prevent cold and flu viruses from taking hold, though having battled at least half a dozen colds last year before I lost count, I’m not sure it saved me.

Still, our diet also lends itself to winter reds. As the temperature drops outside, we tend to eat richer, heartier dishes – soups, stews, casseroles and heartier pasta dishes. Red wines naturally complement these.

Don’t forget that recommendations to serve red wine at room temperature don’t mean serving it at the same temperature as your cosy 23-degree heated lounge.

To best appreciate a wine’s characteristics, fuller-bodied wines such as Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon are best served at 16°C to 18°C.

Medium and lighter wines are best served at an even lower temperature – around 14°C to 16°C for Tempranillo, for example, or 12°C to 14°C for Pinot Noir.

Angullong 2021 ‘Fossil Hill’ Sangiovese, $30: From the hills of Orange and a vintage where the fruit ripened slower than in previous years, enabling good flavour development, this elegant, medium-bodied wine is silky smooth with notes of sour cherry, blueberries, redcurrants and a little savoury earthiness.

Primo Estate 2021 ‘Zamberlan’ Cabernet Sangiovese, $40: You might have heard of Primo Estate’s flagship JOSEPH Moda. Well this is baby Moda, made using an Italian technique called ripasso, where newly fermented Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon is pumped over the dried grape skins from the JOSEPH Moda for additional fermentation. The wine is then pressed and barrel aged. The result is another superb McLaren Vale blend, rich and full-bodied with chocolate, nutmeg and cinnamon notes, leavened with bright cherry notes from the Sangiovese. From an excellent vintage, it is aromatic with great complexity and flavour.

Zema Estate 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, $29.99: This consistently fine producer expresses Coonawarra Cabernet so well. Medium-bodied with nicely balanced French oak, rich and generous blackberry and plum flavours, along with hints of eucalypt and chocolate.

Lerida Estate 2021 Shiraz, $32: I was bowled over by this Canberra beauty when I tasted it recently. Aromatic and all class with a beautiful purity of fruit, long soft tannins, a little bit of spice, and bright red and black fruit. Medium-bodied and easy to drink. Pour me another now.

Sevenhill 2020 ‘Vaulted Cellar’ Shiraz, $50: This lovely wine is named for Sevenhill’s wonderful old cellar dating back to the 1850s. Basket-pressed and fermented in French oak for 20 months, it repays with an alluring fine wine generously flavoured with blueberry, blackberry and coffee notes. With bright acidity and a long, persistent finish, it is one to cellar or enjoy now (or both).

Primo Estate 2020 JOSEPH Nebbiolo, $90: Winemaker Joe Grilli has always said that his Nebbiolo is a labour of love. If you’ve got a special occasion coming up or you simply want to savour this noble Italian grape, reap the benefits of his labour with this lovingly made wine. Just six barriques were made, one a new French oak barrel from a cooper in Piedmont. With a gorgeous rose fragrance, it has notes of Turkish delight, strawberry, and cherry alongside hints of star anise. It pairs beautifully with slow-cooked winter dishes.

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