26 September 2023

Success A Shaw Thing

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By Christine Salins.

www.foodwinetravel.com.au

Shaw Vineyard Estate 2018 Merriman Cabernet Sauvignon

An extensive background in construction, an affinity with the land, and trips to Italy that fostered an interest in wine, all brought Graeme Shaw to where he is today. As the owner of one of the region’s largest vineyards and most prestigious cellar doors, Shaw’s contribution to the Canberra wine industry cannot be overstated.

Together with his wife Ann and family, who are all actively involved in the business, Shaw bought Olleyville, a 280-hectare sheep property in Murrumbateman, in 1998 and set about fulfilling his vision.

Inspired by the Hardy Wine Company’s entry into the Canberra market and having engaged the Orange Agricultural College and Charles Sturt University to determine the property’s suitability for growing grapes, he established Shaw Vineyard Estate in 1998.

Initially he supplied Hardys, keeping aside some for his own label, with the first Shaw Wines released in 2005. Ironically, Hardys pulled out of the Canberra region, but Shaw’s determination to create a long-term family business paid off.

Shaw Vineyard Estate cellar door

It hasn’t been without considerable effort. First, he built a substantial cellar door/restaurant before building an even more impressive cellar door that opened in 2018. The original cellar door now houses the award-winning Olleyville restaurant, while the new cellar door adds a whole new level of sophistication to the operation.

As well as a modern, light-filled tasting room and spacious terrace, it has an elegant lounge that is open to Shaw club members and a large downstairs cellar housing the estate’s museum wines. The entire complex is decorated with striking artworks, reflecting the family’s keen interest in the arts.

Nor has Shaw rested on his laurels as far as the wine production goes, constantly learning, tweaking, and improving the vineyard operation. The estate produces fine Riesling, Semillon, Merlot, Malbec, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, winning more than 300 medals and trophies in the past few years alone.

Now is a good time to visit as the estate is currently hosting an exhibition of sculptures by local and internationally renowned artists. Sculpture@Shaw continues until March 20.

Shaw Wines Sparkling Cuvee

Shaw Wines 2021 Sparkling Cuvée, $30: This easy-drinking sparkling wine is made from Semillon, lending a soft citrus/lemon palate balanced with delicate acidity and natural sweetness. Made by the charmat (tank) method, it is unpretentious but delightfully refreshing.

Shaw Wines 2019 Shiraz, $34: The cool-climate Canberra region produces a softer style of Shiraz that goes beautifully with food, and here’s a good example (we loved it with the duck pancakes served at the opening of Sculpture@Shaw). With a delicate nose of black cherries and red and black berries, it has fine tannins, a hint of spice and a lingering finish.

Shaw Wines 2021 Members Edition Malbec, $34: A few years ago, Shaw grafted plantings of Merlot over to Malbec with a view to doing some Bordeaux-style blends. This is the first crop bottled. It’s a single varietal and very light, the sort of wine that you’d quaff on the back deck or enjoy at an alfresco lunch. You could serve it lightly chilled on a hot day. Available to wine club members only.

Shaw Wines 2018 Reserve Merriman Cabernet Sauvignon, $65: Many people are unaware that Canberra produces some fine Cabernet. At an elevation of around 640 metres, the estate has a few sites with perfect microclimates for this variety. The best fruit goes into this Reserve wine that has won a string of awards, most recently the trophy for Best Cabernet Sauvignon at the NSW Wine Awards. An earlier vintage was named Best Australian Cabernet Sauvignon at the International Wine Challenge in London. An exquisite wine with delicate blueberry and chocolates notes, it has hints of mint and subtle French oak.

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