By Christine Salins.
Dalrymple Pinot Noir
Taking a straw poll among friends, more and more people are opting for a Pinot over bigger, heavier reds. Although the statistics indicate that Australians are as in love with Shiraz as ever, anecdotal evidence suggests that the softer, more subtle Pinot Noir is definitely increasing in popularity.
It’s a fickle variety that can be quite challenging to produce, in contrast with the more ubiquitous Shiraz which thrives in a wide range of regions. But some winemakers are drawn to Pinot precisely for the challenge it presents, looking on it as the holy grail of wine production.
It does best in cool climates like Tasmania, the Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley and the Adelaide Hills, as it is in these cooler regions that the true character of the grape is able to express itself.
It does well at higher altitudes in the Canberra District, hence you’ll sometimes see Pinot sitting alongside Shiraz in a Canberra line-up. More than half of the Lerida Estate vineyard near Lake George is planted to Pinot Noir, while Lark Hill Wines has been perfecting it since 1984.
Elephant in the Room Pinot Noir
Australian Pinot comes in a wide spectrum of flavours and colours, from quite light through to strawberry and dark red cherries. The wine takes on a more gamey, leathery character as it ages.
Dalrymple Vineyards 2020 Pinot Noir, $38: Tasmania is producing some of the finest Pinot Noir in Australia – or rather, the finest, not only in Australia but better than any from New Zealand too, if you ask my neighbour, John. That’s a matter of opinion but this one from Pipers River in Tasmania is certainly a beauty with its deep purple/garnet colour, juicy plum and cherry notes, and subtle spice. It has a deliciously long finish and slips down a treat with beef bourguignon and lamb tagine. www.dalrymplevineyards.com.au
The Shadow 2019 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir
Elephant in the Room 2019 Palatial Pinot Noir, $15: If you’re into bold, expressive flavours, follow the herd to this fruit-driven crowd pleaser from Mount Gambier in South Australia. It has earthy berry aromas, bright acidity and cherry flavours, with a hint of smoky spice. It pairs well with mushroom risotto and lamb dishes, and if you can lay your hands on a bottle with the special neck tag before July 15, there’s a chance to win one of 25 fully catered house parties. A convenient half-size bottle of this Pinot is available for $10. www.fourthwavewine.com.au
The Shadow 2019 Pinot Noir, $34: This one is from premium wine brand The Group, a grower-owned collective of about 100 producers. From a long-time grower in the Adelaide Hills, it is elegant and graceful with delicate floral aromas and bright cherry notes. Chef Matt Moran suggests pairing it with Ora King Salmon with a red wine butter sauce. It’s available at Liquorland and First Choice stores nationally. Some Liquorland stores also have a half-size bottle for $22.
