By Christine Salins.
In Simple Italian, Silvia Colloca takes readers by the hand and teaches them to cook like an Italian nonna. Nothing fussy, nothing elaborate, just authentic, fresh, delicious food – the dishes that Italians can’t live without.
Italian-born, Sydney-resident Colloca has been a huge hit with Aussies since she burst onto our television screens with the SBS show, Made In Italy, followed by others on SBS and the ABC. She produced four cookbooks before Simple Italian (Plum/Pan Macmillan Australia, $39.99); this is her most down to earth yet.
Alongside chapters on pasta, gnocchi and rice, Simple Italian shows you how to create stunning antipasto spreads and cook hearty mains and elegant sides to go with them, from the perfect bruschetta, to baked chicken, classic polpette (meatballs) and the hearty and delicious Ligurian lamb shanks featured here.
Colloca offers countless tips and tricks so that you’ll be able to create creamy risotto, soft gnocchi and silky smooth pasta. She tells you which sauce goes with which pasta shape, how to make the best frittata, and how to whip up a light and airy focaccia, before turning your leftover bread into delicious meals, such as meatballs or deep-fried mozzarella toasties.
There are also delicious sweets – nothing fancy, just simple cakes, biscuits and tarts that Italians actually eat at home, like Raspberry Tart and Cherry and Ricotta Cake.
Devotees of Colloca’s engaging style and simple, authentic food will look forward to her new show on SBS Food, starting on Thursday, April 8, when she returns with a second season of Cook Like An Italian.
Over 10 episodes, she will be sharing the secret family recipes from her mamma and nonna and her own tips and tricks for mastering the art of regional Italian cuisine.
Ligurian Lamb Shanks
Serves 4
4 French-trimmed lamb shanks
3 tablespoons plain flour
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) extra-virgin
olive oil
salt flakes and freshly ground
black pepper
3 garlic cloves, skin on, bashed with the back of a knife
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 carrot, roughly chopped
1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
3 thyme sprigs, plus extra leaves
To serve:
180 ml (3/4 cup) white wine
500 ml (2 cups) chicken or beef stock
3 desiree potatoes (about 600 g in total), peeled and cut into wedges
100 g (3/4 cup) pitted mixed olives
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
2 to 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
Dust the lamb shanks in the flour, shaking off the excess.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over medium-high heat. Season the lamb, then add to the dish and cook, turning, for 6-8 minutes until nicely browned all over. Remove and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic, onion, carrot, celery, thyme and remaining oil and cook for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Return the lamb to the dish and season with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to high and deglaze with the white wine, scraping up any bits caught on the base. Cook for 1-2 minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Pour in the stock and enough water to cover the lamb, then reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, for 2 hours.
Add the potato and olives, then put the lid back on and cook for another 45 minutes or until the lamb is very tender and the potato is cooked through. Remove the lid and simmer for 10-15 minutes until the liquid has reduced by one third. Take off the heat and season with salt and pepper.
Sprinkle the lemon zest, pine nuts and extra thyme leaves over the lamb shanks and serve.
From: Simple Italian by Silvia Colloca, published by Plum, RRP $39.99. Photography by Rob Palmer.
