26 September 2023

A double take on Polly

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By John Rozentals.

Chester Osborn: impossibly loud shirts.

So, who’s a naughty boy then? McLaren Vale winemaker Chester Osborn – he of the impossibly loud shirts – that’s who.

His premium sparkling wine – Polly – is, according to the family company website, simply a doting ode to a much-loved mother.

Pauline was the eternal optimist, known to family and friends alike as Pollyanna Polly.

Listen to Chester talk over lunch to a group of writers, though, and it’s also a tribute to the winemakers at Pol Roger, one of Champagne’s best and most famous houses.He loves what they do and is grateful for having access to the name.

WINE REVIEWS

Tim Adams 2017 Semillon ($25): Quite different to the famous unoaked Hunter Valley semillon yet I think just as good. Still fresh and aromatic, but also with a belt of good oak. A dry wine with the acidity to handle quite heavy white-sauced pasta dishes. Try with carbonara.

Tim Adams 2016 Cabernet Malbec ($27): A famous Clare blend created at Leasingham by the late legendary Mick Knappstein, with Malbec filling cabernet’s famous mid-palate hole. I just about always opt for lamb with cabernet. Try with lamb fillets and red-currant jelly.

WINE OF THE WEEK

D’Arenberg NV Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunière Polly ($35): simply a stunning sparkling wine and well worth the Pol Roger comparison. Lemon and cashews lead the way with yeast and fresh bread following. A great aperitif and equally good with fresh oysters or sushi.

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