By John Rozentals.
Windowrie: vineyards are all free of smoke taint.
After a slower than usual start to the season Windowrie is confident that vintage 2020 has settled into its rhythm, with quality looking impressive.
“Our thoughts are with those that have been directly and indirectly impacted by the dreadful fires that have ravaged the country,” said owner Jason O’Dea. “We are fortunate that, so far, we have escaped the worst of what has been a difficult start to 2020.”
The Windowrie vineyards are all free of smoke taint. The white varieties have been harvested and are safely in the winery, with the exception of our picpul. “This variety ripens around the same time as shiraz. It’s an exciting variety which we continue to gain experience with.”
“Our various shiraz parcels are presenting themselves as positively as ever,” explained winemaker Anthony D’Onise. “The grapes went through veraison at the usual times, however bunch weights were lower, as a reflection of the dry conditions.
“We experienced some warm temperatures in early January which saw the baumes move quite quickly. Harvest was subsequently seven days earlier than usual.
“Our shiraz continues to perform well. I’m confident that with the experience that we have with the region, the vineyards and in the winery, we’re continuing to produce a modern style that competes for the best-value shiraz in New South Wales.”
Jason’s father, David O’Dea, who established Windowrie 32 years ago, and recently celebrated his 80th birthday, has experienced most of nature’s challenges. “Every vintage is unique, and we’re constantly reminded that, as an agriculturally based business, we exist at Mother Nature’s whim.
“We are a tough and resilient community and I am confident that the global climate issues that we are experiencing will be addressed in line with the science that is being presented.”
WINE REVIEWS
Bremerton 2019 Special Release Fiano ($24): I’ve sung the praises of the Italian white variety recently so I won’t bang on about the Bremerton 2019 Special Release Vermentino ($24) except to say it’s good. I’ll bang on instead about this wine, made from another white Italian variety, fiano, grown mainly on Sicily. It’s aromatic and citric, with the teute to be both food-friendly and good for at least medium-term cellaring. Drink with Italian-style white-sauced veal.
Bremerton 2019 Special Release Grenache ($24): Grenache is Spanish in origin but is also grown widely in the southern French Rhone area and in Australia, especially in the Barossa and McLaren Vale. This is a full-bodied, juicy dry red that should be drunk young with meaty tappas. Look for red berry fruits and a distinct pepperiness — white pepper that will have you sneezing, rather than black ground pepper.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Bremerton 2016 Old Adam Shiraz ($56): This is a good-enough dry red to forgive winemaker Rebecca Willson for having me scrabbling round the drawer looking for an old-fashioned corkscrew. This is a premium dry red made for cellaring and shows lashings of rich, spicy fruit and lovely toasty oak. The best bit is that you’ve only got a few months to wait for a natural food partner such as osso bucco to come into its own and make an idyllic flavour pairing.
