By Christine Salins.
Nino Zoccali’s obsession with Venice began many years ago, when at just 21, he visited the floating city for the first time. Born in Western Australia to a first-generation Italian migrant, he grew up with a love of Italian cuisine and embarked on a career as a chef.
Today, he and his wife Krissoula, own two of Australia’s most awarded Italian restaurants, The Restaurant Pendolino and La Rosa The Strand, both in Sydney. While building his career as a chef, he has also fostered a keen interest in art, music and history, and there is perhaps nowhere in the world where these are more beautifully represented and nurtured than in Venice.
His passion for the city runs deep, so it’s hardly surprising that it has become the focus for his cookbook, Venetian Republic: Recipes from the Veneto, Adriatic Croatia and the Greek Islands, published by Murdoch Books ($49.99).
Zoccali has personal and professional links with regions that were once under Venetian rule. His wife is from the Greek island of Ithaca that became part of the Venetian Republic in the 16th century, while close friends are from Croatia which continues to have many culinary links.
In this book, which is part cookbook, part culinary and cultural journey, he explores how the small city state of Venice came to rule the waters of the Mediterranean, its ships and merchants dominating salt, silk and spice trade routes for a thousand years.
The Venetian Republic played a defining role in shaping the cuisine, culture and architecture of its Mediterranean neighbours. The food from this region is diverse, as Zoccali’s book amply demonstrates: Prosecco and snapper risotto, Croatian roast lamb shoulder with olive oil potatoes, the sweet and sour red mullet of Crete, zabaglione from Corfu, or Dubrovnik’s ricotta and rose liqueur crepes.
They are recipes steeped in history, and they are accompanied by rich and evocative stories, along with stunning location and food photography. The recipe here is a Padovan version of the French coq au vin. It’s an indulgent dish and it’s essential that the spatchcock is marinated for 24 hours, allowing the flavours of the red wine and Cognac to seep into the meat.
Drunken Spatchcock And Mountain Mushroom Fricassee With Red Corn Polenta
Serves 4
4 spatchcocks
10 whole baby pearl onions, peeled
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
4 garlic cloves, finely diced
1 bottle Padovan ‘Novello’ red wine (or any light-style red wine)
125 ml (½ cup) Cognac
150 ml (generous ½ cup) extra virgin olive oil
1 litre (4 cups) Chicken stock
100 g fresh chanterelle mushrooms, sliced (or shimeji or portobello mushrooms)
2 sprigs rosemary
190 g (1 cup) red corn (Storo) polenta (or yellow polenta)
60 g Parmigiano Reggiano
100 g butter
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fresh herbs, to garnish
Cut the spatchcocks into quarters (marylands and breasts), with the breasts left on the bone. Combine the spatchcock, vegetables, garlic, red wine and Cognac in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Remove from the refrigerator and strain. Pat dry the spatchcock and vegetables with paper towel, keeping the wine and Cognac.
Heat the oil in a large cooking pot or flameproof casserole dish for 2 minutes over medium heat. Add the spatchcock pieces, skin-side-down, and brown the skin. Turn and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove the spatchcock and set aside.
Add the strained onions, carrot, celery and garlic to the pot and cook for 4 minutes over medium heat, continually stirring. Add the red wine and Cognac and cook for 30 minutes, until reduced by half.
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Return the spatchcock to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Add the chicken stock, mushrooms and rosemary and bring to the boil.
Transfer the pot to the oven and cook for 35 to 40 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if required.
Meanwhile, bring 1 litre (4 cups) water to the boil in a large pan and slowly add the polenta in a stream, stirring continuously. Cook, stirring, for 40 minutes. Add the cheese and butter and season with salt. Mix thoroughly, then cover the pan with a lid and leave for 5 minutes.
Spoon the soft polenta onto a serving plate and add the spatchcock, vegetables and sauce. Garnish with any fresh herbs.
Recipe and images from Venetian Republic, by Nino Zoccali. Food photography by Alan Benson, location photography by Andrea Butti. Published by Murdoch Books, RRP $49..
