By Christine Salins.
Sevenhill Clare Valley
In the next few weeks, Sevenhill will celebrate a long and proud history of winemaking in South Australia’s Clare Valley. Established by Jesuits in 1851, initially to make sacramental wine, the winery is still run by the same Catholic religious order and a great drawcard for the region, both for its fine wines and its historic cellars.
Sadly, the 170th birthday celebrations will be bittersweet, for Brother John May, the devoted and engaging man who steered the ship for the best part of half a century, died last week at the age of 92.
Although Sevenhill wines have been made by lay winemakers since 2006, Brother John was winemaker from 1972, the seventh Jesuit winemaker to take the reins. Following his retirement in 2003, he continued to prepare morning tea for the winery staff, care for St Aloysius’ Church (on the Sevenhill site) and offer visitor tours of the property.
Sevenhill’s general manager, Jonathan O’Neill, paid tribute to Brother John as a wonderful man with a warm heart who loved the Clare Valley and its people. “Along with his deep faith, it was his engagement with community that was most important to him.”
Brother John May
Brother John was active in a range of industry and community groups, a founding member of the Clare Valley Vine Improvement Society, inaugural president of the Clare Valley Tourist Association, and a lifetime member of the Winemakers’ Federation (now Australian Grape and Wine). He was inducted into the Clare Valley Hall of Fame in 2014 and appointed a Member of the Order of Australia in 2016.
Under his lengthy stewardship, Sevenhill expanded its output from 80 tonnes to 500 tonnes a year by 1990. Sacramental wine distribution expanded across Australia to South-east Asia, a range of table wines was developed, and a cellar door established.
Covid-permitting, Sevenhill will mark its 170th birthday with a series of events from September 17 to 19, along with the launch of a new range of premium wines and a relaunch of its popular Inigo range (tasting notes follow). Current winemaker Will Shields produces elegant wines that pay tribute to Sevenhill’s and Brother John’s remarkable legacy.
2019 Inigo Shiraz, $28: With generous black cherry, blueberry and plum flavours, along with hints of chocolate and spice, this rich, concentrated wine lingers smoothly on the palate. Fermented in old slate vats, hand-plunged and basket-pressed, it is great value for the price.
2019 Inigo Cabernet Sauvignon, $28: Cabernet is widely regarded as the Clare Valley’s premier red variety. This one has intense dark fruit, great depth of flavour and enticing aromas, with a hint of the saltbush that grows in the surrounding region. Inviting and intriguing.
2019 Inigo Merlot, $28: For those who enjoy a bolder style of Merlot, this is rich and juicy with sweet fruit and a long, savoury finish. It easily stands up to hearty winter dishes.
2021 Inigo Riesling, $25: Riesling excels in the Clare Valley, and this one is pristine with citrus flavours and crisp, balanced acidity. Easy to drink now, it should also age well gracefully.
2021 Inigo Pinot Gris, $25: With delicate floral and spicy characters, this is perfect for quaffing. (Grapes were sourced from the Adelaide Hills, rather than Clare.) By the way, the Inigo label pays homage to Inigo of Loyola, a mercenary who turned his life around, dedicating himself to helping others and co-founding the Order of Jesuits.
