By John Rozentals.
Canowindra’s organic winegrower, Pig in the House, has released its 2019 Pig in the House Rosé and Pig in the House Chardonnay.
Pig in the House winemaker Anthony D’Onise and grapegrower Jason O’Dea: successfully treading where those before them dared not.
Jason O’Dea’s Pig in the House wines have quietly raked in a bevy of awards over the past few years, with the 2016 Shiraz awarded the Organic Wine of the Year at the 2017 Melbourne Royal Wine Show.
“Each year we’re building on the quality of the wines,” said owner and vigneron Jason O’Dea.
“There is nothing like experience, both in the vineyard and the winery, to help improve quality.
“The vineyards are now over 20-years-old. This isn’t necessary old in terms of vineyards, but in terms of vine maturity they’re starting to hit their straps.
“It’s all about balance, from the volume of fruit that the vines can ripen, the water used, canopy management, organic matter in the soil, to name a few. After 20-odd years, we’re getting pretty good at this.”
The vineyard was established by Jason and his family in 1996, with winemaker Anthony D’Onise working with the team for nearly 10 years.
“We have seen some success with our wine, both on the show circuit and in store,” said Jason.
“The growth of organic and vegan wines has certainly helped, but I think the increase in quality of wines in these categories has allowed them to compete with mainstream brands.
“Organic wines are no longer relegated to a separate shelf in the store. Consumers don’t have to be ‘forgiving’ of organic wines.
“Our goal is to produce wines in this range that offer excellent quality for the price point and the bonus is we are organic.”
WINE REVIEWS
Pig in the House Rosé ($25): The wine is made predominantly from sangiovese with a touch of shiraz, with a small proportion of the wine fermented in older, seasoned oak to build further complexity and texture in the final blend. It is fresh and dry, and undoubtedly suited to the Australian summer lifestyle. Try is with a bowl of pasta, a slab of pizza or a salad and see what the southern Europeans are on about.
Pig in the House Chardonnay ($25): Has had minimal oak maturation, and the melony, nectarine-like fruit really shines through. We wouldn’t have been game to try to make a fresh white organically in my day, but there you go. The result is delicious. Drink this one with some freshly grilled white fish.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Angullong 2019 Fossil Hill Vermentino ($26): I first fell in love with this white Italian variety grown in hot climates but it’s obviously just at home in cooler climates such as that around Orange. The wine has been compared with trebbiano but I reckon it has more flavour than that and would stretch the comparison to lighter chardonnay. Either way, its a great match for freshly opened oysters.
