By Christine Salins.
Champagne Besserat De Bellefon
No other country has embraced Champagne as affectionately as Australia has over the past two decades. Growth in the market has been almost ten-fold since 2001, according to Tyson Stelzer, host of Taste Champagne, which showcases an impressive line-up of cuvées to the trade and the public in a series of pop-up events around the country.
While the rest of the world spiralled into a Champagne tailspin in 2020, Australia bucked the trend by posting the biggest increase in imports and the biggest growth of all markets. We’re now the seventh largest Champagne market in the world, and we drink the most per head of any country outside Europe.
Cuvees from Abele one of the oldest Champagnen houses
But although Aussie wine drinkers are generally quite adventurous in trying wines they are unfamiliar with, when it comes to Champagne they tend to stick with what they know — Non-Vintage (NV) labels from the big Champagne houses. These are fine wines and often represent great value for money, but it means Aussies are missing out on the joy of discovering some of the many other wonderful cuvées that are coming to our shores.
Taste Champagne sets out to address that with 48 Vintage cuvées, 44 Rosés and eight Prestige wines amongst the 221 cuvées in this year’s line-up. The wines came from 72 estates, many of them names that a lot of Australians have probably never heard of. Last week’s event in Brisbane was a great opportunity to try some labels that I was unfamiliar with and to be reacquainted with others that are more familiar.
Franck Bonville Prestige Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut NV
The cuvées featured here represent just a very small selection of the wines tasted but they give an indication of some of the gems to be found at Taste Champagne.
Le Brun De Neuville Côte Blanche NV, $69: A lovely fresh Blanc de Blancs (ie. 100% Chardonnay) with appealing creaminess and a simple expression of the chalky minerality of its terroir. It’s a rare treat for entry level Champagne to be Blanc de Blancs, but as 88% of this producer’s plantings are Chardonnay, it’s perhaps not so surprising in this case.
Franck Bonville Prestige Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut NV, $90: This biodynamic (and also predominantly Chardonnay) producer has been making pretty much only Grand Cru for four generations. Its Prestige cuvée is comprised of the very best wine from two vintage years (2014 and 2015). The result is elegant and expressive with great texture and purity.
Taste Champagne showcases an impressive line up
Vranken Diamant Blanc de Blancs 2007, $159: It’s not hard to tell that I love Chardonnay (and am convinced the Blanc de Blancs style is perfect for our Aussie lifestyle). This one has 100% Grand Cru fruit with brioche and citrus notes that are a great match with seafood. It’s vivacious and stunning, even more so because it comes in a gorgeous bottle that is dressed to impress.
Louis Roederer Vintage Brut 2013, $130: You might be familiar with Cristal (also by Louis Roederer) but a special occasion could equally be celebrated with this vintage cuvée. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay aged for 4 years on lees, it is redolent of pear and peaches, strawberries and lemon – all the deliciousness of summer.
Vranken Diamant Blanc de Blancs
Besserat de Bellefon Brut Rosé NV, $100: With a delicate but persistent bead, this sensual Rosé is light and bright with a hint of brioche and nutty spice. Cuvées from this house are Pinot Meunier dominant and food-friendly; the Rosé goes beautifully with duck or grilled prawns. The brand dates back to 1843 and hit its straps in the 1960’s and ‘70s when it was fashionably served on Concorde and at the Moulin Rouge.
Moët & Chandon Rosé Imperial NV, $90: This is the best kept secret in the gigangtic LVMH Moët Hennessy portfolio, according to David Cross, who was showing Moët & Chandon, Ruinart and Veuve Clicquot at Taste Champagne. Why, he asks, are Aussies in love with Rosé from Provence, yet slow to embrace Rosé bubbles like this seductive blend? With generous red berry flavours and a zesty fruitiness, it’s perfect for a special celebration.
Henri Abelé 2009 Sourire de Reims Brut, $280: Abélé is one of the oldest Champagne houses, though the brand is relatively new to Australia. The price of this flagship wine is not for the faint-hearted, but the attention that goes into it is exceptional. Made only in outstanding years, it’s a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot noir, aged for at least 10 years. The name translates as ‘Smile of Reims’. There’s a lovely story to the name, too long to go into here, but be assured this is a wine that will make you smile.
