By Christine Salins.
Pirie Sparkling Wine
For winemakers, global warming means having to take specific steps in growing and production to counter the effects of climate change. It’s no coincidence that many key players in the Australian wine industry have invested in Tasmania.
Those extra degrees further south of the Equator can make all the difference in producing crisp, elegant wines. Tasmania’s sparkling wines are garnering worldwide attention, its Pinot Noir has a loyal and devoted following, and its fine aromatic whites are also worth seeking out.
Pinot thrives in Tamar Ridge’s Kayena vineyard, on a bank of the Tamar River north of Launceston where the tides create an air flow along the valley that helps grow and protect this notoriously temperamental grape variety.
Seeking out cooler vineyard locations was a driving force for Brown Brothers when it purchased the Kayena Vineyard and Tamar Ridge, Pirie and Devil’s Corner brands in 2010. The well-regarded family company with more than a century of winemaking history is now one of the key players in the Tasmanian wine industry.
Tamar Ridge cellar door
Tom Wallace, head winemaker at Tamar Ridge and Pirie, cut his winemaking teeth in New Zealand but has also worked in California, France, the Hunter Valley and McLaren Vale. He has overseen the winemaking process at Tamar Ridge since 2013.
Wallace delicately balances the science and art in making Pinot, producing a range that includes Estate and Reserve Pinots, a Single Block Pinot from one special clone in the Kayena vineyard, and a Research Series Pinot, the second release in a series of experimental wines trialling new vineyard and winery techniques.
Sibling brand, Pirie, continues the vision of Dr Andrew Pirie, one of the founders of Tasmania’s modern wine industry who was instrumental in forging the state’s reputation as a producer of premium sparkling wine.
For readers able to travel to Tasmania, the Tamar Ridge cellar door is worth a visit. Twenty minutes’ north of Launceston, it has outstanding views over the Tamar River and a great weekend bar menu.
Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir
Tamar Ridge 2019 Riesling, $25: Tasmania produces a relatively small amount of Riesling which is a pity, because it excels in a cool climate. With a bright, racy acidity and lovely, fresh citrus notes, this pairs nicely with seafood or Asian-style dishes.
Tamar Ridge 2019 Sauvignon Blanc, $25: Tasmanian Sav Blanc tends to be more citrus-driven than the grassy New Zealand style. With passionfruit/kiwi fruit notes, this one is zesty with a soft finish, pairing nicely with oysters and with asparagus (the best asparagus I’ve ever tasted was in northern Tasmania, hours after being picked).
Tamar Ridge 2019 Pinot Noir, $34: Deliciously ripe cherry aromas with seductive spicy, savoury notes in the background, and a soft, smooth finish. Winemaker Tom Wallace recommends enjoying it with friends around a campfire looking up at the stars.
Tamar Ridge 2019 Reserve Pinot Noir, $65: Made only in the best years, elegant and seductive with silky tannins, generous raspberry/blueberry notes, and a long finish. A real treasure to squirrel away for a special occasion.
Pirie Sparkling NV, $35: Made in the traditional method from handpicked Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this non-vintage wine is vibrant and full-flavoured with an aromatic lift. The winemaker recommends it with oysters, richer fish dishes, or a ripe brie with thinly sliced Granny Smith apple. But, heck, it goes with anything.
Pirie Sparkling Vintage 2017, $50: Made only in the finest years, this cuvée is creamy with a delicious yeasty, brioche character beautifully balanced with subtle lemon/apple notes providing a fresh zesty acidity.
