Reviewed by John Rozentals.
Colin Richardson was a giant of a man, a very friendly, softly spoken giant of a man.
He was gigantic in girth, no doubt largely through over-consumption of the food and wine he loved so much.
But he wasn’t always that way, I was assured by a good friend who had fought with Colin in Vietnam. There he had apparently been light enough, agile enough and brave enough to be a ‘tunnel rat’, chasing Viet Cong soldiers in the most cramped conditions, armed with a pistol in hand and a knife held between his teeth.
But Colin was also gigantic by intellect and attitude to others. He held a senior position in the Australian division of the French liquor giant Remy, which had established Blue Pyrenees Estate vineyard and winery in central Victoria.
The position involved much educational work, and he loved nothing more, outside his family, than to pass on his vast knowledge and inspire young professionals in the wine, food and spirits industries.
By the time of his death in 1999 Colin had already earmarked a batch of BPE Merlot for special treatment. And special treatment it got.
A year or so after his death, it was released as the Blue Pyrenees Estate 1997 The Richardson Merlot, and I considered myself very fortunate to be chosen to organise the Melbourne launch dinner of that wine.
Some of the wines I selected were, of course, from BPE, but there were plenty of others as well, including a couple of excellent Tasmanian dry whites which I knew he loved.
Nothing pleased me more than to be given the thumbs up for my selection by Colin’s great friend, Adelaide wine writer Philip White.
BPE’s recognition of Colin’s stature continues, despite severance of the Remy connection, and the winery has just released the truly magnificent 2012 Colin Richardson Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (see Wine of the Week).
I’ll always remember Philip White’s accolade to Colin the night of that launch, when he said the thing he would remember most, alongside Colin’s intellect and generosity, was the softness and sensuality of the man’s lips.
“They were made for genuinely enjoying great wines and good food,” said Philip. Or at least word to that effect.
TASTING NOTES
Angullong 2016 Fossil Hill Tempranillo ($26): A medium-bodied red made from a grape variety native to the premium Spanish area of Rioja and recently gaining quite a following Australia, both among producers and consumers. Maturation in French oak (20 per cent new) has made a delightful red from a vintage rated the best since the vineyard was planted in 1998. A great alternative to cabernet, with just a bit more softness thrown in.
Prohibition Liquor Co Gin (about $100): A very complex full-strength (42 per cent alcohol by volume) gin beautifully packaged in a very heavy, thick square-cut bottle. Botanicals used in its production include juniper, coriander seed, ginger root, wormwood, pink peppercorns, blood orange … the list goes on. These flavours combine with the spirit to create a harmonious, smooth blend in the glass. Watch that alcohol, though.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Blue Pyrenees Estate 2012 Richardson Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($120): A suitable red to commemorate a giant of a man. This is a great Bordeaux-style red loaded with minty cassis flavours, and showing just a touch of the eucalypt character which so defines central Victoria. The fruit is backed by lovely French oak and the wine really is a pleasure to consume.
