By John Rozentals.
There’s a lovely story to the illustration on the label of the Hill-Smith family’s Heggies wines in high country of the Eden Valley, bordering South Australia’s legendary Barossa Valley.
The label features an illustration of a man on a horse — Colin Heggie, a local grazier whom the Hill-Smiths brought the property from, aboard Jack, his faithful chestnut.
The Hill-Smith family’s Heggies Vineyard … to stand by the lake, directly across from the vines and taste the wines they produce is a great privilege.
Legend has it that Jack knew his way home so well that the local publican would just make sure that Colin was in the saddle, then slap Jack on the behind, and the horse would safely deliver Colin.
Apocryphal or not, it’s a nice story.
The vineyard is only about six kilometres as the crow flies from the Hill-Smiths’ Pewsey Vale, which I wrote about visiting last week, but it’s completely different.
It’s lower down and more protected, and I’m sure that its large lake has an ameliorating effect on conditions there.
That’s why they can grow and male exceptional chardonnay as well as riesling, which is the sole occupant at Pewsey Vale these days.
Once again, to stand by the lake, directly across from the vines and taste the wines they produce is a great privilege, one that the family’s team wants to deliver to visitors.
A deck overlooking the lake, and a nearby kitchen, mean that it’s more immediately ready to accept tourists but I sincerely hope they are shown both vineyards.
The differences are substantial, though you can actually walk between them. It’s suggested though, that you begin the trek at Pewsey Vale and take advantage of a downhill run.
WINE REVIEWS
Heggies Vineyard Estate 2017 Riesling ($24): This is immediately softer, rounder and more floral than the riesling from Pewsey Vale but it is still distinctly varietal and distinctly regional. It’s zesty and delicious now but will certainly repay a decade’s thoughtful cellaring. The winemaker’s notes suggest matching with a salad of green mango and crisp noodles. I really can’t do better than that.
Shaw Vineyard Estate 2014 Merlot ($28): If all Australian merlot was this good — instead of the sweetened up stuff often pedalled by our major producers and destined principally for the American market — I’d be much more receptive of the variety. This is rounded and shows a completely dry palate with lots of dark-berry flavour and of medium weight. Like good cabernet, a great match for lamb.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Heggies Vineyard Estate 2016 Chardonnay ($30): A tribute to modern chardonnay-making, thus lovely dry white has both plenty of altitude-induced stonefruit and loads of winemaker-provided complexity. Look for creaminess and nuttiness induced by French-oak fermentation and maturation. Enjoy with white-fleshed fish in a gingery sauce or scallops with just about any Asian-inspired sauce.
