By Christine Salins.
Australians are drinking less wine but trading up and looking for varieties that are less mainstream. Sandy Hathaway, a senior analyst at Wine Australia, was reported in the May 2023 issue of National Liquor News thus: “It seems that today’s wine consumers in Australia are drinking less volume overall but at higher price points, are more engaged but care less about the origins of the wine and more about trying new varieties.”
Fiano, a white Italian variety, is one that is becoming increasingly sought after. There are a few reasons for that, not least being that it is suited to our climate, but also because it’s a very easy wine to drink, with or without food.
Depending on where it is grown, it presents in a fresh, mineral style right through to a rich, mouth-coating style. Its acidity pairs brilliantly with Asian food or anything even remotely spicy. It also pairs well with seafood, rich pork dishes, pasta and cheesy/creamy dishes. It is nothing if not versatile.
Fiano is an ancient wine grape hailing from the warmer coastal regions of southern Italy and the island of Sicily. Plantings are increasing in Australia. You’ll now find it planted as far afield as the Granite Belt in Queensland, the Hunter and Hilltops in NSW, King Valley in Victoria, McLaren Vale in South Australia, and Western Australia’s Margaret River.
One of the pioneers of the variety in Australia is McLaren Vale producer, Coriole, which released its first Fiano in 2007. It remains a benchmark for the variety in Australia. Hardys Tintara also produces a Fiano from McLaren Vale, as does Angove, which makes an organic Fiano under its Alternatus label.
Queensland Wine Industry Association president, Mike Hayes, believes climate change will force more and more regions to turn to Mediterranean varieties like Fiano, and that Queensland is well poised to lead the way.
“I’m noticing the summers have got higher humidity and we’re getting warmer temperatures at night,” says Hayes. “That’s where the Italian and the Mediterranean varieties will suit us, because they’re used to that higher temperature at night.”
Fiano’s ability to withstand heat spikes means it is environmentally friendly, requiring much less water. Furthermore, it retains its acidity in the heat where varieties like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay might suffer.
The Granite Belt offers a Strangebird Wine Trail showcasing alternative varieties, the region’s strong Italian heritage accounting for a lot of experimentation with Italian varieties.
Leeanne Puglisi-Gangemi, from Queensland’s oldest winery, Ballandean Estate, points to the number of gold medals that Fiano pulls in for the Granite Belt. Her father, Angelo Puglisi, is a great advocate for the variety. “Dad always reckons the Fiano vines are waving at him,” Leeanne told me a few years ago. “They’re always happy in the heat.”
Rewild 2022 Fiano, $9.95: For a respectable and affordable introduction to this increasingly popular variety, it’s hard to go past this crisp, refreshing drop from the eco-conscious Duxton Vineryard. The sustainable Rewild range is made with minimal intervention and is vegan-friendly. With marmalade and tropical fruit aromas, it has a tingling acidity, racy citrus and stonefruit flavours, and a creamy finish. Available at BWS.
De Bortoli 2022 Ti Amo Fiano, $19.95: De Bortoli chief winemaker, Steve Webber, is passionate about Fiano, sourcing the fruit for this lovely wine from De Bortoli vineyards in Rutherglen and King Valley. I loved this wine, which is appropriate given that ‘Ti Amo’ is Italian for ‘I love’. We enjoyed it with barramundi in panko crumbs and it definitely revealed more flavour with a little bit of time out of the fridge. As with good Chardonnay, it’s hard to appreciate the wine’s beautiful flavours and complexity if drunk too chilled. With aromas of pear and elderflower, an ever-so-delicate acidity and equally delicate nut and citrus flavours, Ti Amo is pure class – elegant, a touch salty, soft but textural. Interestingly, the underside of the label has a picture of a beautiful vineyard, so that as you drink the wine you can look through the bottle to imagine yourself overlooking a vineyard landscape. The design was recognized with a trophy for Best Label Artwork at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show. Very cool.
