By John Rozentals.
Paul White … The West Winds distillery’s ‘Captain and Ship’s Navigator’.
There he goes again, I hear you say, writing about hard liquor instead of that much more genteel wine stuff.
And quite unapologetic-like, too, except to plead that it’s okay because it’s an alcoholic drink. And adding that he quite enjoyed the contents of the bottle.
Well, guilty as charged on all counts your honour, and this time I’m writing about gin — the drink that bought so many Londoners well and truly unstuck in the 1700s and 1800s.
That gin has had a recent upsurge in popularity in recent years is undeniable, quite likely because of the huge range of aromatics — herbs and spices such as sage, thyme and coriander, and, of course, juniper — that can be infused into high-strength spirit.
The gin that really got me going on this topic comes from West Australia’s Margaret River region, also the source of some of Australia best wines — an experimental barrel-matured gin from The West Winds distillery — but interest had previously been kindled by a visit to Bundaberg, home of another famous spirit.
There I had taken part in a gin-blending exercise — appropriately under the moniker ‘Let the Night Be-Gin’ — organised by Kalki Moon Distilling & Brewing as part of the city’s series of food festivals, and I was immediately and terminally hooked.
To say that the latest West Winds product is both provocative and classy definitely constitute understatements. See attached review for details.
WINE REVIEWS
Hastwell & Lightfoot McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon ($25): Made from vines that have been rejuvenated on very old roots by the decision to cut the vines off at the trunk — let’s call it ultra-severe pruning. The resultant wine is extremely robust, powerful and full-flavoured and definitely a match for food such as roast lamb served with plenty of richly sauced mushrooms and baked root vegetables.
Hastwell & Lightfoot McLaren Vale Shiraz ($25): Made from 70 per cent fruit ripened fully on ‘restructured’ vines, this dry red, too, shows immense richness of flavour, together with quite soft tannins. I must agree with owner and vigneron Martin Lightfoot that the older vines with well established root structures do make the best, most robust, typical-of-the-region reds. This time, substitute roast beef for roast lamb.
The West Winds Barrel Expedition II Gin ($85 for 700ml): This is a special release of Captain’s Cut that has been aged for two years in an old gewürztraminer barrel and comes in at 45 per cent alcohol-by-volume so treat it with due care. I took the distiller’s advice and broke it down a bit with pure water. I admit I found little wine flavour, but it certainly carried elegant spirit flavours enhanced by clean aromas of sage and thyme.
