By Christine Salins.
Sapling Yard is a boutique Canberra District producer of consistently fine wines that are full of character. It’s a joy to discover wines made with such passion – interesting, polished wines that you will only ever see in limited quantities.
I tasted a couple of Sapling Yard wines at Wine Island, an event held around the Carillon on Queen Elizabeth II Island in November. It was disappointing to see so few Canberra wineries represented at the event; it was the first time it had been held in Canberra and no doubt it takes time for an event like this to grow.
But winemaker Malcolm Burdett was there, showing the wines he is making for Sapling Yard, and I reckon he did the Canberra District proud.
The wines have an impressive pedigree. Burdett has been making wine for decades around Canberra, having spent seven years at Doonkuna (later bought by Eden Road) and 13 years at Lerida Estate. In 2019, he joined Carla Rodeghiero in her passion project at Sapling Yard.
Carla, who began her career as a microbiologist, produced her first Sapling Yard wine in a small shed in her back yard in 2012. She had earlier done a wine science degree, completing her last residential school in 2004 with her then newborn baby, Mia, accompanying her.
In 2008, Carla established a small 3-acre vineyard near Braidwood, planted with Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and a small experimental block of Tempranillo. (The Sapling Yard name comes from a creek that flows across the vineyard.)
Since 2019, Carla and Malcolm have been making their wine at Lake George Winery, drawing on fruit not only from the Braidwood vineyard but also from other vineyards in the Canberra, Tumbarumba, and Hilltops regions.
In 2021, their wines were granted a wider audience when they opened a cellar door in Molonglo Street, Bungendore, open on Saturdays from 11am to 4pm.
Experimenting with different varieties, blends and techniques is part of the fun for both Carla and Malcolm. Their portfolio recently expanded to include some new reds from 2022, including The Extrovert, a bold blend of Mourvèdre, Shiraz and Grenache; an easy-drinking Sangiovese; and Gamay, a favourite of Carla’s.
In a testament to their diligent winemaking, Sapling Yard has enjoyed considerable success on the show circuit. Their now sold out 2021 Pinot Noir won a trophy for best Pinot Noir at the 2022 Canberra and Region Wine Show.
Sapling Yard 2022 Lake George Riesling, $30: Handpicked from the Lake George Vineyard, this classic Canberra Riesling is crisp and dry with citrus (and particularly lime) notes. Its zesty acidity is balanced with a deliciously long finish. Youthful and refreshing, it pairs nicely with Asian noodle dishes and seafood.
Sapling Yard 2022 The Four Pinots, $30: This is quite an unusual wine that has proved incredibly popular. A blend of Pinot Gris from Boorowa, Pinot Noir from Tumbarumba, Pinot Meunier from Lake George, and Pinot Blanc from Braidwood, it’s more like a white wine than a pink. Complex and vibrant with pear, apple and a hint of grapefruit, its sweet/sour notes are juicy and lip-tingling.
Sapling Yard 2021 Pirouette Chardonnay, $38: I truly loved this wine and it wasn’t just because I enjoyed it with some excellent Sydney Rock oysters from the South Coast, a match made in heaven if ever there was. Made from Tumbarumba fruit, it has subtle oak and a lovely light creaminess, along with citrus, marzipan and stonefruit notes. Tumbarumba produces superb Chardonnay and this one is no exception. There’s not much left; you’ll have to get in quick.
Sapling Yard 2022 Rosé, $28: Grab this from the fridge to enjoy on the back deck or at a picnic or barbecue. 95% Grenache from the Freeman vineyard in Hilltops, the rest Gamay from Sapling Yard’s Braidwood vineyard. Although fruity on the nose, it is quite dry with red apple, cherry, and raspberry notes. A lively summer drop or, in the winery’s words, “totally smashable”.
Sapling Yard 2021 Shiraz/Viognier, $38: Apart from the Chardonnay, the pick of the bunch. Aromatic and smooth, this medium-bodied red is a blend that Canberra does so well. Made from Murrumbateman and Lake George fruit, the 3% Viognier component adds an enticing floral, fragrant note. Fine tannins and a hint of white pepper, with raspberry, plum and mulberry flavours. Very elegant.
