By Christine Salins.
The late Julia Child said in her book, Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom, that “once you have mastered a technique, you barely have to look at a recipe again”. That may be so but it doesn’t stop us buying cookbooks.
The American doyenne of cooking – featured in the marvellous documentary, Julia, in cinemas recently – authored numerous books that continue to bring people pleasure long after they have mastered the technique.
In these past two years, there’s been added joy in dipping into cookbooks, for they allow us to travel widely without leaving home. Here are some books to put on your Christmas wish list or to give to a foodie friend.
Stephanie Alexander’s The Cook’s Companion is the kitchen bible for Australian cooks, selling over half a million copies. Her newest book, Home (Macmillan Australia, $59.99) contains more of her wisdom and guidance in mastering the fundamentals but is imbued with a lot of personality too. The 200+ new recipes are complemented by essays on people, places and experiences that make great holiday reading.
Neil Perry’s The Food I Love was another seminal work, and you could look on his newest book, Everything I Love to Cook (Murdoch Books, $59.99), as the bookend to that. He revisits dishes from his flagship restaurants like Rockpool Bar & Grill and modern classics from his Good Weekend column, as well as new favourites. Yum.
Adam Liaw is one of the most popular presenters on TV and it’s easy to see why, for he is not only a super-nice guy but incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about food. Tonight’s Dinner (Hardie Grant Books, $45) features recipes from his SBS show, The Cook Up. These are fresh, modern dishes designed for everyday eating – no need to wait for a special occasion.
In A Year Of Sundays (Simon & Schuster, $45), Belinda Jeffery shares the recipes, musings and memories that inspire her cooking. Her Sunday morning Instagram posts are much adored, and they are celebrated in this lovely collection of recipes from her northern NSW cooking school. Drawing on produce from her garden and local producers, this is cooking from the heart.
Christine Manfield is an avid traveller with a particular passion for India. Her earlier book, Tasting India, was one to salivate over. In Indian Cooking Class (Simon & Schuster, $59.99) she guides readers through the deeply fragrant world of Indian home cooking, making spices and techniques seem far less daunting. These are achievable recipes that will have you turning out impressive dishes in no time.
We can continue to travel virtually with Istria, by Paola Bacchia (Smith Street Books, $55). This is a deeply personal book from the author, who grew up in Istria, the heart-shaped promontory at the northern crux of the Adriatic Sea. Her stories and mouth-watering recipes from Italy, Slovenia and Croatia include delights such as semolina dumplings, beef and pork goulash, and apricot strudel.
It’s on to Cornwall with Rick Stein At Home (BBC Books, $55) as he takes us into the rhythms and rituals of his home cooking. Recipes range from family classics (his mum’s risotto and her favourite Apple Charlotte) to his favourite way to cook whole fish on the barbecue, and some of his obsessions, like making stock and perfecting sourdough. He shares stories about his favourite ingredients and food memories, all delivered with his trademark warmth.
Colourful and vibrant, Filipino food is the culmination of naturally salty, sour and sweet ingredients, along with the Filipino spirit of generosity and community. Under Coconut Skies (Smith Street Books, $55) is a journey through the Philippines’ 7000 tropical islands as Yasmin Newman takes us into local homes, sharing traditional dishes, and vegetarian and modern interpretations. It’s a feast for all the senses.
Continuing around south-east Asia, Sambal Shiok (Quadrille, $49.99) is a collection of Malaysian-inspired recipes from Mandy Yin, who runs a London restaurant of the same name. She looks at the basics of a Malaysian pantry, shares recipes handed down by her mother, and tantalizes us with delicious recipes such as Malacca Nyonya curry laksa, Penang assam laksa, Malaysian fried chicken, and spiral curry puffs.
Ross Dobson is a dab hand with the barbecue tongs – that’s clear from his string of best-selling cookbooks on the subject. His newest book, Firepit Barbecue (Murdoch Books, $35), has easy recipes for relaxed get-togethers around the fire, cooking on a simple grill or hotplate. For people installing a firepit in the backyard this summer, this is the book you need for learning how to get the best from it, along with delicious, easy recipes.
Acid, texture and contrast make food truly come into its own, and Selin Kiazim highlights those three magic elements in Three (Quadrille, $49.99). She shows how to redefine your cooking, transforming a modest dish into the star of the show, by using ingredients from the cupboard or fridge and combining them in a way that elevates every single element. Whether you want a simple midweek meal or something to impress, this is clever stuff for creating dishes that sing.
Speaking of singing, did you know that Jane and Jimmy Barnes are keen cooks as well as musicians? Where The River Bends (HarperCollins, $49.99) features stories and recipes from around their table, from healthy breakfasts and lunches to pastas, Thai curries, Sunday roasts and desserts. Their feasts are apparently legendary – wouldn’t you love to be a guest at their table? Well, now you can. The photography is stunning too.
Fairytale Cooking (Murdoch Books, $39.99) will make you smile. Austrian food stylist Alexander Hoss-Knakal has clearly had a lot of fun creating a culinary wonderland around fairytales such as Little Red Riding Hood, The Snow Queen and The Little Mermaid (the latter menu with a distinctly seafood theme). There’s a spiced lamb tagine fit for the sultan’s palace in Aladdin and an opulent hazelnut and chocolate parfait from the king’s ball in Cinderella.
There’s more escapism in Wild Sweetness (HarperCollins, $39.99), a collection of dessert recipes from blogger Thalia Ho. Inspired by nature, she takes us through the seasons and the flavours they inspire: bright and herbaceous in spring, aromatic florals and juicy berries in summer, warmth and spice in the autumn, and a smouldering fire in winter. From a family of European bakers, and with Asian heritage, Ho’s childhood memories are built around moments of sweetness. Ethereal and elegant, this enchanting book would make a lovely gift.
We’ll leave you with a recipe for Glazed Christmas Ham from TV chef Justine Schofield, who teamed up with free-range pork producer, Otway Pork, to create this delicious centrepiece for the Christmas table.
Glazed Christmas Ham
Serves 10
1 x 8-10 kg leg of ham
Cloves, to stud (optional)
Glaze:
1 teaspoon Chinese 5 spice
¾ cup marmalade
¾ cup brown sugar
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Remove ham from the fridge 1 hour before baking. Preheat the oven to 180°C and lower the rack to the bottom shelf. Cut around the hock, and with the tip of a small knife, loosen the rind. Carefully peel rind back with the knife and your hands, ensuring the fat is kept intact.
Score a criss-cross pattern in the fat (stud with cloves if you like at this stage). Scoring the ham allows the glaze to stick and the fat to render, creating a glorious golden crust. Place the ham on a rack in a large baking tray that’s lined with foil (this will make washing up much easier).
In a small saucepan, add the glaze ingredients and bring to the boil, whisking to combine well. Cook for 5 minutes or until thick. Using a pastry brush, dab half of the glaze over the ham. Add 1 cup of water to the tray.
Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes basting every 10 to 15 minutes until a thick, glazed crust forms. Rest for at least 30 minutes before carving.
