By John Rozentals.
When the English established their colony in South Africa they planted grape varieties that they were familiar with. As a result, for production of table wines, mostly French varieties were planted.
How sweet it as. Xanadu’s Chief Winemaker, Glenn Goodall, enjoys some of his winning 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Jimmy Watson Trophy at this year’s Melbourne Wine Show presentation.
The pattern was set and emulated in South Australia, with cuttings acquired in Europe and Capetown on the way to Australia.
This foundation set the scene well into the future, and it is only relatively recently that Italian and Iberian Peninsula varieties have found their feet in Australia.
Two new wines from McLaren Vale’s Hastwell and Lightfoot, who are championing these varieties, include the 2017 Hastwell & Lightfoot Tempranillo and 2017 Hastwell & Lightfoot Montepulciano.
“Grapegrowers have looked at the relative latitudes of where these varieties grow best and questioned why we are not growing these wines which are eminently more compatible with our region,” explained owner and vigneron, Martin Lightfoot.
“Wine drinkers have missed out on these fabulous varieties that are arguably more suitable to our climate, especially here in McLaren Vale. We have planted a range of emerging varieties including montepulciano, tempranillo, fiano, garnacha, vermentino and barbera.
I can only agree with Martin’s sentiments. Many of our viticultural areas have much more in common with Italy and Spain that they do with northern France.
Any grape variety that thrives and makes good wine in Italy and Spain should do the same in similar Australian areas.
WINE REVIEWS
Hastwell & Lightfoot 2017 Tempranillo ($25): Tempranillo is highly regarded and widely planted in Spain and has these days become quite well established in Australia. This is quite an elegant, full-flavoured dry red with some similarities to cabernet sauvignon from McLaren Vale. This wine is filled out with a touch of grenache.
Hastwell & Lightfoot 2017 Montepulciano ($25): Montepulciano is Italy’s second-most-planted grape variety after sangiovese but it is only just finding its feet in Australia. This is a rather old-fashioned and rustic full-flavoured dry red which contains a small quantity of shiraz, and would I think go very well with a bowl of freshly cooked pasta and a red-sauced topping.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Xanadu 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ($39): Not due for release until 15 April, but this year’s Jimmy-Watson-Trophy-winner is certainly worth writing about right now. This features Margaret River elegance, balance and flavour at their best, and is filled to bursting with black-currant aromas and tastes of dark forest fruits. Reserve for the finest lamb you can find or squirrel away for at least a decade.
