By Paul Gover.
Q: Our experience in searching for and buying a new car in today’s world started with an optioned-up Skoda Karoq last December, with an expected delivery in July.
Last week they rang and told us that Australia will be given a batch of Karoqs in July but none will be built to order. Apparently Skoda has been hit harder than other car manufactures by the war in Ukraine and so the cars will be what it can produce.
We decided to look around at other options and were very impressed by a friend’s new Toyota RAV4 Hybrid Cruiser, priced at $57,000 but with no commitment on delivery and certainly at least 12 months.
Then we tested a Honda CR-V and it is a nice car, pleasant to drive and excellent servicing at $125 a year for five years. $46,000 drive-away and currently in stock in limited colours.
We didn’t like it quite as much as the RAV4 but we are seriously considering buying one, also placing the order for the RAV4 and, when that turns up, sell the Honda and probably get what we paid for it in 12 -18 months.
Weird times, but are we doing the right thing?
John P
A: What’s that old song, “If you can’t be with the one you love, honey, love the one you’re with”? More and more people are compromising to get a new car of any sort, although you might find you come to enjoy the CR-V enough to cancel the order for the RAV.
Q: A quick question, please.
Which is better, a Kia Cerato, a Mazda2 or Mazda3?
I currently have a 2008 Mazda2.
Susan F
A: The Mazda3 is the better car and far bigger, safer and more sophisticated than your old Mazda2. Mazda should also have a shorter delivery time than a Kia. The Mazda2 is considerably smaller, older in design and less sophisticated.
Q: I’m coming from a Ford Everest and not prepared to wait for the new model.
So I’m considering the Volvo XC90 R design and Mercedes GLC 300 AMG Line.
Both are appealing in different ways, the Volvo for size, features, and value for money, the Mercedes for the look, drive and performance.
Both are priced in a similar bracket and not a deciding factor
I work in sales and do 25-30,000 kilometres a year.
Nick T
A: If you’re doing a lot of driving for work, the sporty feel of the Benz could become tiring. The Volvo is an older design but more practical and would be my choice.
Q: I’m 26 and still drive my first car, a 2010 Ford Fiesta with 145,000 kilometres, but the bonnet blew up in the wind and cracked the windscreen.
So I’m currently navigating the avenues of repair or purchasing a new car, as I was planning on getting a new car in my late 20s with the prospect of having children next year.
I’m looking at a Honda HR-V, Hyundai i30, Hyundai Venue and also the tempting low cost of an MG.
I’ve always been comfortable in a hatch and I find the interior size to be relatively comparable to a small SUV.
I’m usually traveling less than 20 minutes at the most to get to most things day-to-day.
Steph S
A: If you’re looking to the future, and babies, it’s best to get something new as it will be much, much safer than staying with the ancient Fiesta. The Venue is excellent but has a big waiting list, the new HR-V is getting up in price, while the MG is cheap for a reason. If you can wait, then test drive the Venue and Kia Stonic and pick the one you prefer. If you need to move quickly, then Mazda has shorter waiting lists and the CX-3 will probably work for you although it might cost a little more.
Q: I’m 65, single, and looking to get a new car or good low-mileage second-hander.
Over the years I have had Holdens, Volvos and BMW and I do some country miles as well as driving in the city.
I’m looking to spend $25,000-35,000 and any advice would be appreciated.
Laird G
A: To give you some of the prestige you’ve had in the past, with a solid feel in country conditions, a Subaru will be a good choice. There is also a shorter waiting list than other affordable brands, and the compact XV should work for you budget as a new car or the larger Forester as a secondhand purchase.
Q: I have a Mercedes Benz C250 AMG line that was delivered new to me in August 2015.
Because of my work being predominantly overseas, between 2016 to 2021, it’s only done 30,000 kilometres.
Mercedes has noted my tyre wear, which I can see, and want to replace all four original Continental tyres at a total cost of nearly $2000.
But I’ve found these original tyres have quite a harsh ride so is there an economical alternative with a more comfortable ride?
Brian D
A: Choosing the AMG Line package means you have gone for a more-sporty tyre, which brings better grip and a bolder look on big alloys, with a downside of higher wear and less compliance in the sidewall that means more road noise and a harsher ride. Switch brands. And definitely go to a multi-brand tyre outlet, like Bob Jane T-Marts, for some impartial advice and a choice of rubber with prices which should be cheaper.
Q: We have a 2020 Mercedes-Benz GLC AMG 43 and from week two we noticed that the tyres were crabbing whenever we turned the car sharply.
We took it back and they told us that it was an issue and that they would help us out when we needed new tyres.
Well, we need new tyres at 14,000 kilometres. They are completely gone and the cold weather makes the car unbearable to turn anywhere.
People stare at us with the noise it makes.
We have been back to the dealer and they do not want to help. They tell us it is not a defect but a characteristic of the car.
Eventually they offered if we got a quote they would better it and have now offered to better it by $140.
Have you ever come across this problem? Do you have any suggestions what we can do as Mercedes Benz won’t accept that it is a defect?
Peter and Diane C
A: We have tried a number of times to get Mercedes-Benz Australia to admit there is a problem, after investigating with an independent suspension engineer. Benz says it is a characteristic of some of its cars but makes no admission of a fault. You can get a less-sporty tyre fitted, which will reduce the impact of the crabbing sound, but it cannot be eliminated.
Q: I’m looking at buying a new car and have a shortlist of three.
They are the Volvo XC40 T5 R-Design, BMW X1 sDrive20i and Genesis GV70 2.5T.
I’m leaning toward the Genesis. What is your opinion please?
Silvana C
A: The XC40 was brilliant when new, and a multiple award winner, but it’s getting a bit older now. You are right to go for the Genesis and it definitely gets The Tick.
Q: After having a Toyota HiLux company vehicle for the past 20 years I now need to purchase a vehicle.
I have been looking at 2013 Holden Commodore VF wagons, as sometimes I will be towing a lightly-loaded tandem trailer.
Just wondering if you have an idea of something economical and reliable in the price range up to $15,000.
And how many Kilometres is too many for a used car.
John W
A: Taking the last point first, you should aim as close as possible to 100,000 kilometres and stay under 160,000 even for a rock-solid Commodore. Remember that even the V6 Holden will be thirsty so costly to run with high petrol prices, so perhaps look at something more economical. A Toyota Camry will easily handle you needs, there are plenty around, and even with a tight budget you should find something. Remember the Camry was also built in Australia, with local suspension tuning and other tweaks, so it might not have the charisma of the Commodore but it does what it says on the badge.
Q: I have a 2016 Mazda CX-3 and the battery light has been showing on my dashboard for over a year, although I think that it is now finally on the way out.
I drive my car pretty much every day, now not too long a distance, with my odometer reading approximately 50,000.
When I had a recent service at Mazda they wanted to charge me $650 to replace the battery. I asked why so much, and they said because I had i-stop.
I do not want i-stop, so can I get this taken off? And if I can, will a battery be less expensive?
Dawn K
A: The i-stop system is hard-wired into the car to improve economy and should have zero effect on the battery as it does not use the electrical starter motor. But batteries generally have a shorter life in modern cars because of the increased electrical loading. To save some money, go to a battery specialist for a factory-specification replacement as the dealership is unlikely to be as competitive on price.
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