By John Rozentals.
Darry and Chester Osborn: masters at what they do, creating some of Australia’s best reds.
Nothing gets the palate exercising more eagerly than the arrival of a case of samples from Darry and Chester Osborn and their team in South Australia’s McLaren Vale — especially if it contains an untried ultra-premium red.
So it happened recently when I received a case containing, as well as other gems, a bottle of the fourth vintage of The Old Bloke & Three Young Blondes.
I must be improving with age.
The Old Bloke is a shiraz-dominant blend with roussanne, viognier and marsanne, three white Rhone varieties that d’Arenberg planted in McLaren Vale in the 1990s.
These ‘young blondes’ add fragrance, spice and length to the ‘old bloke’, which is sourced from d’Arenberg’s oldest shiraz vines.
Sorry, I simply cannot do better than the introductory web notes.
Some might joke that the old bloke is Chester, and the three young blondes are his daughters, the fifth generation who will carry on the d’Arenberg tradition.
I’d joke that the old bloke is Darry and that the blondes are three of his devoted fans.
Each of these title characters are represented on the label as a cut-out silhouette.
Much like the wine itself, the four personalities are ‘blended’ together by being overlayed one on top of the other, each creating a window to the next and achieving an effect of tactility and depth.
WINE REVIEWS
D’Arenberg 2017 D’Arrys Original ($20): This blend of grenache and shiraz always has been one of my favourite d’Arenberg wines … and it firmly remains so. Its rich flavours remain alluring, even slurped from a well-used, stained tea mug. While writing this, I’m saving enough to wash down a slice of quality pizza this evening. The two should go very well together, even at the end of a very trying day.
D’Arenberg 2017 The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon ($75): A silky red highlighted by earthy blackberry fruit flavours and solid tannins. It has a long future in the cellar, but if you must drink it now, do so with some fine lamb fillets with red-currant jelly. Neither wine nor meat will be wasted.
WINE OF THE WEEK
D’Arenberg 2015 The Old Bloke & Three Young Blondes ($200): Chester, who inherited the winemaking role from his dad, Darry, is rightly careful with his choice of blends. Each of the roussanne, viognier and marsanne sits comfortably with the dominant shiraz and adds its own intrigue to a spicy mix indeed. You’ve spent the money. Now save the bottle for the best red-loving company and a meal of richly sauced red meat.
