By Christine Salins.
Tahbilk wetlands
Just 1½ hours’ drive from Melbourne, Nagambie Lakes is home to a couple of Australia’s most iconic wineries – and certainly one of its most historic.
A sub-region of Central Victoria’s Goulburn Valley wine region, it has a surprisingly moderate climate thanks to the influence of numerous lakes and lagoons. A wide range of grape varieties are grown, with Rhone varieties doing particularly well.
Tahbilk, Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery, is said to take its name from the aboriginal name for the area, tabilk-tabilk, meaning “place of many waterholes”.
Established in 1860 and bought by the Purbrick family in 1925, Tahbilk offers history and character in every glass. The winery has been home to five generations of the Purbrick family, an enviable winemaking legacy.
Another regional icon is Mitchelton, recognized for both its wines and its impressive 55-metre tower. The plans for it were drawn by one of the country’s most renowned architects, Robin Boyd, and completed by Ted Ashton after Boyd’s death in 1971.
Established by the entrepreneurial Ross Shelmerdine in 1969, Mitchelton cemented its reputation for Shiraz in 1991, when its 1990 Print Shiraz won the Jimmy Watson Trophy. The Ryan family bought Mitchelton in 2011 and opened a luxury boutique hotel in 2018.
Tahbilk Riesling
Fourth-generation winemaker Alister Purbrick, his wife Rosa and daughter Hayley have turned to Italian and Spanish varieties for their Dalfarras wines, reviewed in this column back in January/February. The labels feature Rosa’s stunning artworks and the wines are accredited carbon neutral.
Cruising the inland waterways around Nagambie affords not only some quality wine tasting but also some unforgettable sunsets. Last month in this column we featured Ultimate Winery Experiences, a collective of premium Australian wineries offering memorable experiences beyond the cellar door.
You can book one of their experiences aboard the Goulburn Explorer savouring fine food and wine while cruising on the picturesque river between Mitchelton and Tahbilk. Tahbilk has also launched an Indigenous Native Flora Walking Trail, providing a further drawcard for the region.
Mitchelton 2020 Blackwood Park Riesling, $28: First produced in the ‘70s, this much-loved wine consistently draws awards and accolades. Refreshingly crisp and dry, it has intense citrus aromas and flavours, with a little bit of zing on the finish and great minerality.
Tahbilk 2021 Riesling, $20.30: For a vintage that looked touch and go for a while, 2021 turned out to be a cracker. Back in January, we featured Tahbilk’s flagship variety, Marsanne. As terrific as that wine is, don’t overlook this Riesling which entices with its bright citrus notes and great finesse. Pop some in the cellar for a few years and it will develop even more character.
Tahbilk 2021 Viognier, $20.60: Unlike the Riesling which is a bit of a sleeper, this one is best appreciated while young and exuberant. Aromas of apricot and ginger are followed by bright citrus and stonefruit notes and a touch of spice. Fresh, fun and easy to drink.
