Reviewed by John Rozentals.
Looking south across the Blue Pyrenees Estate vineyards to the foot of the Pyrenees mountains.
It’s a huge call to make.
In a state as rich in grapegrowing resources as Victoria — with regions such as the Yarra Valley, Heathcote, Geelong and the Grampians — Andrew Koerner, chief winemaker for Blue Pyrenees Estate, reckons that the central region of the Pyrenees is the pick of the state’s regions for cabernet sauvignon, arguably the king of red-grape varieties.
“There is no doubt that the Pyrenees’ growing-season weather pattern of warm days and cool nights lends itself to long, slow and even ripening of cabernet sauvignon grapes,” he says.
“This ripening season often culminates in warm, dry March weather to finish off this ripening process, producing intensity of flavour without compromising elegance and subtlety.”
I can only nod in agreement, but add that several other Victorian regions would claim the same, so the proof has to be in the drinking.
Last week I reviewed the superlative BPE 2012 Richardson Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. This was certainly one of the best cabernets I have had the pleasure to taste, but at about $120 it should be outstanding.
So what about something that Average Joe can afford. How does something like the standard BPE 2015 Cabernet reviewed this week stand up?
Very well indeed, though I’m still a bit reticent about recognising Koerner’s claim, at least until presented by the indisputable results of a major multi-region Victorian taste-off.
*****
Looks like Jean-Claude Mas, the former racing-car driver and now highly successful French Languedoc producer who cheekily launched the Arrogant Frog label quite a few years ago, has engendered some antipodean competition in the form of the Curious Kiwi label, based in Marlborough.
Most of the wines are about $10 a bottle and available though Liquorland. I tried the chardonnay recently and it’s a pretty decent drop for the money.
WINE REVIEWS
The Natural Wine Co 2017 Organic Rose ($18): Made from sangiovese, an increasingly popular variety for rosé, grown in the Canowindra region, where Jason O’Dea has been practising organic viticulture for many years. A dry, refreshing and flavoursome style produced only from free-run juice and fined with ‘vegan-friendly’ agents.
The Natural Wine Co 2017 Organic Shiraz ($18): A bold, juicy red produced again from fruit grown near Canowindra. Brief maturation in French and American oak has added a touch of complexity. Preservatives have been avoided, attesting to quite remarkable and skilful winemaking in achieving such brightness and clarity of appearance and flavour.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Blue Pyrenees Estate 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon ($26): A very handy red from a drier-than-usual season in the Pyrenees district of central Victoria. Lots of cassis and blackberries in the flavour, plus refined and restrained French oak. Palate shows good balance of fruit, oak, tannin and acidity. I think the jury remains out on whether this is from Victoria’s top cabernet region, though the Pyrenees is obviously right up there.
