By John Rozentals.
People tend to think of Yalumba’s Hill Smiths as predominantly a Barossa family and I guess that’s where their home is, but they also own some of the best red dirt in South Australia’s famed Coonawarra, and that means producing some of Australia’s — no let’s be honest — and the world’s best cabernet sauvignon.
Natalie Cleghorn: a huge fan of Coonawarra.
I’m normally a great shiraz fan, and remain so, but there are many enjoyers of great red who reckon you can’t go past the best aged cabernet sauvignon — and they can’t all be wrong.
So I adjusted my wine-tasting goggles for this bracket and admit that I could almost feel a conversion coming on. I did say ‘almost’, and shiraz will always remain king for this palate, though it has been granted an excellent partner in the red-wine stakes.
And did I hear someone mention pinot noir? Made well in regions such as New Zealand’s Central Otago it does seem almost peerless.
The final vote will just have to wait, though I think I know which way Yalumba’s Coonawarra master Natalie Cleghorn, apparently as much at home among the area’s famous thoroughbreds as its terra rossa, will lean.
And the food recommendations this time are very dependent on Yalumba’s winemakers.
WINE REVIEWS
Yalumba 2015 The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon ($35): The Cigar is the name coined for the strip of rich, red terra rossa dirt that makes Coonawarra what it is. Dry conditions in December and January kept berry size smaller than normal and concentrated flavours and tannins. The result is a powerful red that has Coonawarra’s renowned structure and goes very well with barbecued lamb chops.
Yalumba 2017 Sanctum Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($26): One of the wettest vintages ever in Coonawarra meant harvest was delayed by two to four weeks. Full-bodied and intense in flavour, this dry red simply oozes dark fruits and is more for immediate drinking than cellaring, though it will age well in the short-term. Enjoy with medium-rare venison backstrap.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Yalumba 2014 The Menzies Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($60): The Menzies Vineyard is in the heart of Coonawarra’s terra-rossa strip and produces red wines of great longevity. This is towards the peppery end of the spectrum, though it also shows fine floral notes. It’s robust and will live for ages but is already well suited to char-grilled rib eye served with root vegetables.
