By John Rozentals.
As one of Windowrie’s founders, David O’Dea, said: “Every vintage has its challenges. It’s how you deal with the challenges that counts.”
The 2019 season was dry and warm which resulted in Windowrie’s harvest being around 30 per cent below average.
The boys call vintage 2019 done and dusted … Windowrie vigneron Jason O’Dea shares a joke with winemaker Anthony D’Onise.
Windowrie’s vigneron, Jason O’Dea, commented: “It was an interesting season with the vines having a very slow start in spring.
“This was followed by the warmest January on record. Our January yield estimates during veraison [the onset of grape ripening] showed that bunch weights were going to be down by 20-30 per cent.
“As the white varieties ripened, flavour development was building at lower baumés [sugar ripeness]. The grapes were subsequently picked earlier than usual, as we wanted to lock in the fresh varietal flavours while retaining natural acidity.
“This has proved to be the right move with the wines safe in the winery rather than still on the vine, as some growers had issues with sunburn in the region.”
“I am very pleased with the whites given the warm January and am extremely excited about our 2019 preservative-free chardonnay which will be bottled in a matter of weeks,” said winemaker Anthony D’Onise.
“With the red varieties, shiraz was definitely the hero, with our organic vineyards producing very balanced, ripe berries.
“We have some beautiful examples of shiraz in the winery. The smaller berries have produced wines of intense flavour and colour. This has ensured that we have range of exciting barrels of shiraz which will make the blending of our 2019 wines a joy.”
Further information on Windowrie and their wines can be found at windowrie.com.au.
WINE REVIEWS
Castle Rock 2018 Skywalk Porongurup Riesling ($20): This quite soft, immediately food-friendly riesling takes its name from the suspended walkway that snakes its way around the granite outcrop of the Castle Rock landmark in Western Australia’s Porongurup National Park. It’s aromatic and refreshing. Try it with freshly grilled white-fleshed fish such as bream, served with a leafy garden salad.
Castle Rock 2015 Shiraz ($30): Though made from grapes grown in a slightly lower and warmer spot than at the winery itself, this remains definitely a cool-climate red from Western Australia’s Great Southern region. I see it as a medium-bodied wine perfectly suited to a great steak straight off the char grill of the last — alas, but I’m sure that some excellent rugby beckons — of the season’s barbecues.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Chapel Hill 2017 McLaren Vale Shiraz ($33): This soft, richly flavoured, full-bodied dry red is what the warm McLaren Vale area of South Australia does best and few make the style better than Chapel Hill’s Michael Fragos. Almost enough said. The wine positively reeks of spicy dark berries and will be a great match for the hearty winter stews that our kitchens are firing up for.
