26 September 2023

Is this Victoria’s best red?

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By John Rozentals.

Andrew Koerner: a great champion of central Victoria.

There’s absolutely no argument about the state of Victoria producing some of Australia’s best dry reds, whether they be the beguiling pinot noirs of the Yarra Valley or robust shiraz from the various parts of the centre of the state.

But there is plenty of argument about what Victoria’s best dry red actually is.

Andrew Koerner, the Chief Winemaker at Blue Pyrenees Estate, near Avoca in central Victoria, has plenty of evidence on his side when he suggests the BPE Section One Shiraz fits the bill perfectly:

“From 2013 to the current 2017 vintage, Section One Shiraz has been awarded four trophies, three of which named the wine the best Victorian shiraz — twice at the Great Australian Shiraz Challenge.”

It has also returned 19 gold medals.

The current BPE 2017 Section One Shiraz is priced at $44 and has received the accolade of being the best Victorian shiraz at the 2019 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge.

“We hope you like it,” said Andrew Koerner.

“Try it with Chinese five-spice pork belly.”

I haven’t taken up the food suggestion, but I do love it with rare char-grilled steak.

WINE REVIEWS

Blue Pyrenees Estate NV Luna ($28): BPE’s multi-vintage house bubbly is made using the traditional Champagne varieties of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. It fizzes with a fine bead and is an excellent aperitif. Serve with good-quality sushi or, as Andrew Koerner suggests, caramelised-onion-and-goats-cheese tart.

Blue Pyrenees Estate 2019 Exclusive Series Viognier ($28): You’ll need to be a BPE club member (visit www.bluepyrenees.com.au) to get some of this delicious dry white to wrap you palate around. I’m normally not a fan of straight viogner but Andrew Koerner has avoided the variety’s perfumed excesses and delivered a masterful wine that’s ideally suited to most seafood.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Tim Adams 2019 Pinot Gris ($24): Tim Adams is certainly reaping the benefits of his “mid-life crisis” decision to plant heaps of this increasingly popular white-ish variety. The wine is robust, full-flavoured and sits comfortably at the gris end of the grigio-gris spectrum. Try it with a chunky, rich white-sauced pasta or, if you’re feeling particularly well-heeled, some lobster.

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