By John Rozentals.
Robert Stein Wines’ Chief Winemaker Jacob Stein with his father Andrew.
Mudgee riesling continues to confound this, and no doubt other, pundits by continuing to dominate the local wine show in an area best known for its hearty reds.
The chief protagonist is Jacob Stein, whose German heritage indicates both a preference for and a skill with this prince of white grape varieties.
Wine consultant Mike DeGaris chaired the recent 2019 Mudgee Wine Show and was joined by fellow judges Jenna Athey, Jeff Byrne, Will Figueira and Paul Martung.
Riesling continues to excel in Mudgee, with DeGaris commenting on the strong showing, with the top wines being ‘very classy’ and receiving the highest average scores of all the varieties.
When the Champion Wine, along with Most Outstanding White Wine and Best Museum White Wine, are unique rieslings, it is indicative of the strength of the variety in the region.
The red classes also received commendation, particularly from the good 2018 vintage.
Mudgee’s diversity was clearly evident with further praise for semillon, chardonnay, merlot, tempranillo and rosé.
Jacob Stein must have worn a track from his table to the podium and walked away with three leading trophies, not to mention the others:
Champion Wine —
2019 Robert Stein ‘Half Dry’ Riesling
Most Successful Exhibitor —
Robert Stein Winery
Winemaker of the Year —
Jacob Stein, Robert Stein Wines
WINE REVIEWS
Robert Stein 2019 Dry Riesling ($30): It’s easy to see the quality that has gained this white wine two trophies and seven gold medals. Loads of floral and citrus purity highlight the wine. I just don’t understand why the variety is often relegated in bottleshops to a shelf of ‘other white varieties’ when often tragic varieties such as sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio gain more space. Drink this one with simply grilled white-fleshed fish.
Xanadu 2019 DJL Shiraz Graciano Rose ($25): I’m just so glad to see this dry pink wine begin to come into its own in Australia where it’s just so suited to our alfresco outdoors summer lifestyle. Shiraz most of us know about. Graciano is a Spanish red variety that chiefly hails from that country’s leading Rioja region, and that packs a powerful flavour punch. It produces long-living reds but drink this wine now with a salad based on smoked salmon.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Robert Stein 2019 ‘Half Dry’ Riesling ($35): An old-fashioned semi-sweet white-wine style but very modern in the quality context, this carries about 15 grams per litre of residual sweetness, which is noticeable but not excessive. The problem lies in where to place it in the meal context. I have one answer. You don’t! Drink it quite chilled — with soda and ice if needed — as an aperitif. If you must have food, try some high-quality fresh sushi.
